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TimeStampAviator is dedicated to bringing you news on watches, informative or fun articles and guides along with watch reviews. I will be shouting out new crowd funded watch brands or microbrands that have something unique to offer! Stay tuned.
Showing posts with label Chronographology. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Chronographology. Show all posts

Tuesday, July 11, 2017

Bulova Moon Watch Automatic?

Why doesn't Bulova make an automatic Moon Watch? That is a question I have seen being asked around on countless forums and blogs. I have decided to answer this question once and for all.



Lets start with alittle history of the Bulova brand and the Moonwatch. Founded in New York City in 1875 by Joseph Bulova, it was the company to first manufacture the first fully electronic watch with a proprietary tuning fork based technology. Bulova then went on to create the 'Accutron' line up - the swiss made Bulova division. As of 2017, Bulova is owned by the Citizen Watch group and have made many different watches from a curved chronograph, the Bulova Curv, a Automatic diver, the Bulova Sea-king, the 7750 powered Accutron Gemini, and last but not least the Moonwatch. As is the case with most Bulova watches, somewhere on the watch is Bulova's tuning fork logo - arguably their most iconic development.
Why did Bulova take this beauty out of production? (Bulova Accutron Gemini Valjoux 7750)

So enough about Bulova's history; I'm not here to write a guide about Bulova. I'm here to discuss why one of their most popular selling pieces, the Moonwatch doesn't get the authentic treatment that the Omega Speedmaster got. As you may know, Man landed on the moon in the 1960s. During that time, the Omega Speedmaster was selected officially by NASA as the 'first watch on the moon'. During NASA's fourth manned mission to the moon, aboard the Apollo 15 was Commander David Scott. All crew member wore the Speedmaster, however since Bulova had been developing a watch to rival the Speedmaster (however didn't get the contract), Commander Scott was given a Bulova Chronograph Model 88510/01 and brought it along as a backup. During one of the excursions on the Moon's surface, his Speedmasters hesalite crystal popped off - requiring him to wear his Bulova onto the surface. After the mission, the watch sold for $1.6 USD while all of the Speedmasters worn by the other astronauts (which were government property) are still kept by NASA in various museums. This makes the Bulova 88510/01 the ONLY watch that a private citizen owns that has been to the moon.

So why didn't Bulova release a Moonwatch true to the original? I don't work at Bulova so I will only voice my opinion. Not in anyway an official Bulova statement. In my opinion, Bulova hasn't and will not release a true-to-the-original Moonwatch for a few reasons:

  1. It's out of place for Bulova's line-up. If you are a fan of Bulova or an avid entry level watch collector you would know that Bulova's line-up is mostly comprised of entry-level and quartz watches with their selling point being UHF (ultra high frequency) quartz watches. Ticking at 262 khz, the Moonwatch uses Bulova's UHF movement. This makes the chronograph sweep and not tick - reminiscent of automatic pieces. Bulova slowly phased out their Automatic watches years ago and are now in the mid-end quartz market. A true to scale Moon watch just doesn't fit their brand image.
  2. It may be too expensive for them to produce. I'm pretty sure that Bulova still has the original blueprints for the Moonwatch, however it may just simply be too expensive for them to produce. Look at the Omega Moonwatch - those are retailing close to $4000. A Bulova Moonwatch with a mechanical movement may retail for $2000 - about two times the cost of their high-end watch line. It may just simply not be feasible for them.
  3. I'm stretching it abit on this one - but they may have deemed it to be 'not original' as Omega is doing the samething to their Speedmaster. I'd like to digress. What is there not original about the only watch that has been to the moon and is currently owned by a private citizen (none of the Omegas that have been to the moon are in the hands of a private citizen)? To me that is a huge selling point right there. There is alot of heritage behind it - the Moonwatch that never were, one that lost the race to the Moon.

Would I buy a Bulova Moonwatch if it were true to the original? HELL YES. Should Bulova release the Original Moonwatch? HELL YES. In fact, the only reason I don't have a Bulova Moonwatch yet is because IT IS QUARTZ! Now, don't get me wrong I have nothing about quartz watches - I own quite a few of them including the Breitling Chronometre B-1. But I just can't justify buying another Quartz watch as of the moment. Too many batteries to keep track of replacing!

Another watch Bulova developed worthy of a mention: Bulova Accutron Astronaut.

Friday, June 23, 2017

Chronographology: Panda Dials PT2

Part Uno was iconic Panda Dial watches, now Part Dos will introduce to you some of the more affordable and easier to find Panda Dials. While in Part Tres I will compile noteworthy Semi-Panda and Reverse Panda watches.

Starting a watch collection doesn't require you to turn over seven-digits a year. And since Panda Dial watches deserve a place in every serious collector's collection, here are some affordable and easy to find Panda Dial watches.

1. Steinhart Ocean One Vintage Chronograph



Images via Steinhart.de

An obvious homage to the Rolex Daytona Paul Newman, the Steinhart Ocean One Chronograph comes in two dial configurations so you can choose the style that you like best. An ETA 2824-2 movement ticks the watch and the Dubois Depraz DD 2020 chronograph module takes care of the chronograph complication. The use of a non-chrono movement with a piggyback chronograph is what makes the dial arrangement that is true to the Daytona possible. However, this makes for a very thick watch. Coming in at a staggering 18mm thick and 42mm diameter, it is no small watch, This is alot thicker than the original Daytona. 


Image via Steinhart.de

As can be seen, much of the thickness is due to the domed sapphire crystal that protrudes out a mm or two. The domed crystal arguable isn't need but since the watch is under Steinhart's Ocean One Vintage line of watches, it is there for that 'vintage' vibe. In my opinion, Steinhart should not put this watch under the Ocean One line as it is an homage of a race chronograph, drop the domed crystal and the 10ATM water resistance rating in order to slim it up. Even if it was slimmed down to 16mm in height it would make a huge difference for someone with smaller wrists or perhaps when wearing a dress shirt with cuffs. Nevertheless, this is one of the higher quality and better looking Daytona Paul Newman Homages out in the market today and you can expect to pay around $1200 including shipping straight from Steinhart's website.

2. Hamilton X-Patrol H76566351

Although not a true Panda Dial watch, this piece still deserves a shout out. Featuring the all reliable, trustworthy ETA 7750 chronograph movement along with day/date complication and a Pilot's slide rule on the inner bezel, this is an attractive everyday sporty watch from the American owned Swiss brand Hamilton.


Image via Hamilton

Expect to pay around $1000 give or take a few depending where you purchase it from. A place where you can buy this watch is walmart's website (yes walmart).

3. Seiko/Citizen Modern Pandas

Seiko/Citizen has produced a bunch of Panda Dial or Semi-Panda watches recently and although some of them don't truly carry the heritage of the racing chronographs mentioned in PT1 of this series, they nevertheless are 'close enough'.
Here are a few references that you can search for:

SBPY085
SSB003P1
SSC446
SSC569
AV0031-59A


There just aren't that many true Panda Dial watches floating around right now and in the affordable category. If you have a lower budget, your best bet is to scour eBay for vintage Seiko or Citizen pieces or save up for a more expensive Speedmaster Racing Panda Dial. I will continue to add to this list in order to help all of you achieve your quest of owning a Panda Dial timepiece!

Last Edited: 6/23/17

Chronographology: Panda Dials PT1

In the horology world, nothing is more iconic than the chronograph panda dial. Arguably made famous by the Rolex 'Paul Newman' Daytona, the Panda Dial deserves a home in every collector's collection. Not only are they iconic, Panda Dial watches are also elegant, sporty and make a perfect watch for many occasions. I will be making multiple posts on Panda Dials from true, iconic panda dials to affordable pieces and semi-panda dial pieces. Stay tuned.

1. Rolex Daytona 'Paul Newman' ref. 6239

Try not to get lost in his eyes - Paul Newman wearing the iconic Rolex Daytona Panda Dial ref.6239. Most which goes for $90,000+. This specimen is selling for a staggering $170,000! The original Paul Newman Daytona (as seen in this photo) has recently surfaced (as of the time of this writing) and is waiting to go on auction.


Image via Antiquorum

Pictured here are two Daytonas. One sells for around $30,000 and the other around $100,000. Why this difference even though both are ref.6239? The one on the right is a Paul Newman Daytona (albeit reverse panda dial). They are both mechanically and fundamentally the same watch. The only difference lies in the dial.


Image via Hodinkee

A close up of a Paul Newman ref.6241. As you can see the subdials are different. The dial features an art deco style font and the hash marks have a small square at the end. The main dial also features a red colour to mark each stripe. When first released, these dials were considered funky and did not sell well as compared to the regular Daytona. Hence why it is so rare now. So why is the Paul Newman Daytona so coveted and considered the 'grail' chronograph for many collectors?

Paul Newman, a race car driver, philanthropist and actor was first seen wearing this watch on an Italian magazine cover. Ever since then it's popularity has exploded over the years with collectors all over the world. 

You can read more about this at: Hodinkee


2. Citizen 8110 'Bullhead' ref.67-9356

I am going to come out and say it right now: I have a soft spot for Panda Dial watches. I also have a soft spot for Bullhead watches. So what happens when both come together? A watch that I have been scouring the internet and also Japan vintage watch stores (during my trips to Japan) for.


Image via Anteus of thewatchsite.com


Image via wornandwound


Image via wornandwound

The Citizen 8110 'Challenge Timer' or more popularly the 'Bullhead' and it's variants represent a time in horology that represents adventurous watch makers - coming up with new designs and beautiful ones at that. The Bullhead design is without a doubt an ambitious pusher and crown layout that is quite rare in modern times, however present a classical and unique look that (in my opinion) is timeless. The Citizen 8110 'Bullhead' is just that. An adventurous, ambitious attempt at a race chronograph from a Japanese watch maker that perfectly captures the spirit of watch making in the mid 20th century and is worthy of a mention on this list. To make things even better, the movement these houses are 23-jewel 28,800 bph automatic flybacks with day/date complication, 40hr power reserve and hand winding ability. This is a very rare complication and makes this watch a beautiful timepiece both outside and inside.

As of the time of this writing, I have not yet found a Citizen Bullhead that is in a condition that I like yet, but I will continue searching in hopes of it popping up. These pieces go for as low as $200 and high as $1000 dependent on condition. Most however are not well loved and are in need of restoration.


3. Heuer Autavia 



ref.2446C via HEUERTIME

Another iconic racing chronograph that trails the Daytona. The Autavia has many different variants and dial configurations over the years which includes a Panda Dial (pictured above), Reverse Panda Dial and even Semi-Panda Dials. 

via HEUERTIME

The Autavia, to modern consumers delight has been re-released by Tag Heuer in 2003 and 2017. Which means that for the person who doesn't want to spend big on a vintage specimen can finally get their hands on a re-issued one that holds true to the spirit and heritage of the original.


via MonoChrome Watches


via Calibre11


The Autavia is no doubt an iconic time piece, and one that will stay iconic for years to come. There are many variants and different complications of the Autavia that will not be mentioned here, however more information can be found at Calibre11.

4. Omega Speedmaster 3569.31

Ah. The Omega Speedmaster. A timeless chronograph that arguably could be the most iconic of them all. In 2003, the icon got a makeover. A panda dial variant was released to the Japanese market in a limited quantity of 300 pieces. Dubbed, the 'Mitsukoshi, this watch is also one of the most faked Speedmasters around with many people modding a moonwatch with panda dial and passing it off as the original.

Modded Speedmaster via Heuerville

Omega also released a similar Panda Dial Speedy in 2004 - limited to 3,500 pieces the Speedmaster ref.3569.31 Apollo 11 35th Anniversary had a very similar dial and is much more attainable even at the time of this writing. Making it a feasible option for the collector who doesn't have the luxury to get their hands on one of the original 'Mitsukoshi' specimens. 

Image via wornandwound

Omega also released a Panda Dial variant of the Speedmaster Reduced watch. The Speedmaster Automatic 3510.21 'Marui' was released in limited numbers of under 2000 pieces in the Japanese market (why does Japan always get the good watches?) and is considerably rare. If one does turn up however, expect to pay around $2000-3500 for one. 

3510.21 via ChicagoFrog of OmegaForums

And finally we come to the easiest to obtain Speedmaster Panda Dial of them all: Speedmaster Racing Automatic ref.326.30.40.50.04.001 that is still currently on sale as of the time of this writing. Although it is pretty far from the Moonwatch derivative 'Mitsukoshi' and least resembles a Moonwatch Panda Dial, it nevertheless is a Speedmaster with a Panda Dial. Expect to pay around $2600 to $3000 dependent on strap choice and dealer. 


via WatchTurf

5. Heuer Carrera 2447SN

Another Heuer racing chronograph in the list! The Carrera is the epitome of chronograph design in the 1960s. They are versatile and classic chronographs that could be worn with a formal dress or worn while ripping through Daytona International Speedway at 200mph.


via HeuerWorld

At an elegant 36mm, this is one of the smaller chronographs. A huge contrast to the 48mm Breitling Avengers of today. This watch came from a time when men wore smaller, more elegant watches. When 40mm watches were considered big. An even though the dial is not a true panda white/black, more of the silver/black the 2447SN deserves a mention as the Panda effect is still present and it is an elegant specimen that has collectors all the world coveting for one.