Chronographology: Panda Dials PT1

In the horology world, nothing is more iconic than the chronograph panda dial. Arguably made famous by the Rolex 'Paul Newman' Daytona, the Panda Dial deserves a home in every collector's collection. Not only are they iconic, Panda Dial watches are also elegant, sporty and make a perfect watch for many occasions. I will be making multiple posts on Panda Dials from true, iconic panda dials to affordable pieces and semi-panda dial pieces. Stay tuned.

1. Rolex Daytona 'Paul Newman' ref. 6239

Try not to get lost in his eyes - Paul Newman wearing the iconic Rolex Daytona Panda Dial ref.6239. Most which goes for $90,000+. This specimen is selling for a staggering $170,000! The original Paul Newman Daytona (as seen in this photo) has recently surfaced (as of the time of this writing) and is waiting to go on auction.

Image via Antiquorum

Pictured here are two Daytonas. One sells for around $30,000 and the other around $100,000. Why this difference even though both are ref.6239? The one on the right is a Paul Newman Daytona (albeit reverse panda dial). They are both mechanically and fundamentally the same watch. The only difference lies in the dial.

Image via Hodinkee

A close up of a Paul Newman ref.6241. As you can see the subdials are different. The dial features an art deco style font and the hash marks have a small square at the end. The main dial also features a red colour to mark each stripe. When first released, these dials were considered funky and did not sell well as compared to the regular Daytona. Hence why it is so rare now. So why is the Paul Newman Daytona so coveted and considered the 'grail' chronograph for many collectors?

Paul Newman, a race car driver, philanthropist and actor was first seen wearing this watch on an Italian magazine cover. Ever since then it's popularity has exploded over the years with collectors all over the world. 

You can read more about this at: Hodinkee


2. Citizen 8110 'Bullhead' ref.67-9356

I am going to come out and say it right now: I have a soft spot for Panda Dial watches. I also have a soft spot for Bullhead watches. So what happens when both come together? A watch that I have been scouring the internet and also Japan vintage watch stores (during my trips to Japan) for.

Image via Anteus of thewatchsite.com

Image via wornandwound

Image via wornandwound

The Citizen 8110 'Challenge Timer' or more popularly the 'Bullhead' and it's variants represent a time in horology that represents adventurous watch makers - coming up with new designs and beautiful ones at that. The Bullhead design is without a doubt an ambitious pusher and crown layout that is quite rare in modern times, however present a classical and unique look that (in my opinion) is timeless. The Citizen 8110 'Bullhead' is just that. An adventurous, ambitious attempt at a race chronograph from a Japanese watch maker that perfectly captures the spirit of watch making in the mid 20th century and is worthy of a mention on this list. To make things even better, the movement these houses are 23-jewel 28,800 bph automatic flybacks with day/date complication, 40hr power reserve and hand winding ability. This is a very rare complication and makes this watch a beautiful timepiece both outside and inside.

As of the time of this writing, I have not yet found a Citizen Bullhead that is in a condition that I like yet, but I will continue searching in hopes of it popping up. These pieces go for as low as $200 and high as $1000 dependent on condition. Most however are not well loved and are in need of restoration.


3. Heuer Autavia 

ref.2446C via HEUERTIME

Another iconic racing chronograph that trails the Daytona. The Autavia has many different variants and dial configurations over the years which includes a Panda Dial (pictured above), Reverse Panda Dial and even Semi-Panda Dials. 

via HEUERTIME

The Autavia, to modern consumers delight has been re-released by Tag Heuer in 2003 and 2017. Which means that for the person who doesn't want to spend big on a vintage specimen can finally get their hands on a re-issued one that holds true to the spirit and heritage of the original.

via MonoChrome Watches

via Calibre11

The Autavia is no doubt an iconic time piece, and one that will stay iconic for years to come. There are many variants and different complications of the Autavia that will not be mentioned here, however more information can be found at Calibre11.

4. Omega Speedmaster 3569.31

Ah. The Omega Speedmaster. A timeless chronograph that arguably could be the most iconic of them all. In 2003, the icon got a makeover. A panda dial variant was released to the Japanese market in a limited quantity of 300 pieces. Dubbed, the 'Mitsukoshi, this watch is also one of the most faked Speedmasters around with many people modding a moonwatch with panda dial and passing it off as the original.

Modded Speedmaster via Heuerville

Omega also released a similar Panda Dial Speedy in 2004 - limited to 3,500 pieces the Speedmaster ref.3569.31 Apollo 11 35th Anniversary had a very similar dial and is much more attainable even at the time of this writing. Making it a feasible option for the collector who doesn't have the luxury to get their hands on one of the original 'Mitsukoshi' specimens. 

Image via wornandwound

Omega also released a Panda Dial variant of the Speedmaster Reduced watch. The Speedmaster Automatic 3510.21 'Marui' was released in limited numbers of under 2000 pieces in the Japanese market (why does Japan always get the good watches?) and is considerably rare. If one does turn up however, expect to pay around $2000-3500 for one. 

3510.21 via ChicagoFrog of OmegaForums

And finally we come to the easiest to obtain Speedmaster Panda Dial of them all: Speedmaster Racing Automatic ref.326.30.40.50.04.001 that is still currently on sale as of the time of this writing. Although it is pretty far from the Moonwatch derivative 'Mitsukoshi' and least resembles a Moonwatch Panda Dial, it nevertheless is a Speedmaster with a Panda Dial. Expect to pay around $2600 to $3000 dependent on strap choice and dealer. 

via WatchTurf

5. Heuer Carrera 2447SN

Another Heuer racing chronograph in the list! The Carrera is the epitome of chronograph design in the 1960s. They are versatile and classic chronographs that could be worn with a formal dress or worn while ripping through Daytona International Speedway at 200mph.

via HeuerWorld

At an elegant 36mm, this is one of the smaller chronographs. A huge contrast to the 48mm Breitling Avengers of today. This watch came from a time when men wore smaller, more elegant watches. When 40mm watches were considered big. An even though the dial is not a true panda white/black, more of the silver/black the 2447SN deserves a mention as the Panda effect is still present and it is an elegant specimen that has collectors all the world coveting for one.